Balenciaga, Cristobal

(1895-1972)

   Born in Guetaria, Spain, Balenciaga opened his first salon in Madrid in 1920. Civil war broke out in Spain in 1936 and Balenciaga was forced to close his three couture houses and relocate to Paris. In 1937, he presented his first collection and, by 1939, was receiving rave reviews and was declared an haute couture leader. He introduced the world of fashion to the tunic, sack, and empire styles, as well as the no-seam coat. His native country Spain served as a source of inspiration throughout his career and its influence is recognized in the rich embroideries that often graced his ball gowns. These were the creations of the man affectionately referred to as the "Master" by his world-renowned apprentices and colleagues. Both André Courrèges and Emanuel Un-garo studied under him. Balenciaga was a man devoted to his craft, a man who lived for perfection in his designs and the execution of those designs. He was known to personally rework a completed and approved design until its construction seams became invisible and the garment became one with the body. His client list included all of those women listed on the annual best-dressed lists.

   Balenciaga stayed true to his reputation as a couturier and would not compromise his designs or craftsmanship by entering the world of ready-to-wear. This, of course, may have allowed him to create a commercial business equal to that of his friend and contemporary Christian Dior. While he closed his Paris couture house in 1968, however, Balenciaga's scarves, purses, and perfumes continued. His final client, a rather unusual one for him, was Air France Airlines: in 1969, his charge was to create the women's flight attendant uniforms. He retired to Spain where he lived for the remaining few years of his life. From 1987 to 2001, the house of Balenciaga was owned by Jacques Bogart SA. In 1987, a ready-to-wear line was launched and, in 1995, French designer Nicolas Ghesquière began designing for the house. In 2001, the Gucci Group acquired a controlling interest in the company.